These are only a few (of the many) reasons why the definition of “tradition” is more of a moving target than it might seem. There is also the matter of draconian regulation at play. Certification with COMERCAM (CRM) or other regulatory bodies demands a significant amount of money, time, logistics and paperwork. Many view this overwrought (and at times politically charged and corrupt) system as financially exclusionary and a threat to traditional practices. Because of this, a small handful of brands—including Pal’alma, Cinco Sentidos, NETA, Mezcalosfera and Gusto Histórico—send their spirits to America uncertified, under the umbrella of “destilados de agave” instead of “mezcal,” in a direct rebuke of the process. Are these uncertified agave distillates more traditional than certified mezcal? As many dodge certification with the explicit goal of preserving the wishes of mezcaleros instead of upholding seemingly arbitrary industry standards, in many cases, the signs point to yes.
When it comes to defining “tradition” for yourself, there are many paths one can follow. But almost universally acknowledged within both producer and aficionado circles is a single point: Make sure the liquid you’re purchasing isn’t industrial. The easiest way to identify industrial mezcal is to look at the label. If the words “artisanal” or “ancestral” are absent, there’s a good chance it’s industrial. Does the bottle have the name of the mezcalero, of the production process, of the place where the distillates are made? If not, that’s a potential red flag. If you have only your senses to work with, rub the distillate in your hands and smell it. If the aromas scream of vanilla, cotton candy, artificial fruit or burnt rubber instead of agave—that is, herbaceous, peppery, earthy, vegetal—that’s an indication that industrial processes are at play.