Ensamble Madrecuixe, Bicuixe, Barrilito | April 2022 | Aniceto García | ENNANI2204 | Fall 2022 Release | 78 bottles

This spectacular ensamble was made with equal parts of three distinct subspecies of Agave karwinskii endemic to Miahuatlán, Oaxaca and grown in rocky, red soil by a magueyero in the far east of the valley. The maguey known regionally as Bicuixe is the most prolific wild agave in the region, while the Madrecuixe remains an iconic cultivar from the San Luis Amatlán. The Barrilito used in this batch, which only grows about 1m in height, is an extremely rare genotype that is seemingly only found in a small stretch of lands south east of San Luis Amatlán-  a region long recognized for the quality of its spirits production, and a wealth of diversity of sugar-rich agaves of both cultivated and wild types.

The mix of en guía and capón agaves were provided by the magueyero to don Aniceto to be worked a medias, meaning that that total production was split between the grower and the producer. This style of specialized and collaborative work once represented the backbone of the regional production and supply chains, but has diminished in recent years as many growers have signed contracts to lease their lands or sell their agave to large companies, or simply sell to middlemen at wholesale prices which have increased tremendously over the last decade. These traditional networks not only foster a dynamic web of social and economic relationships, but also ensure that good juice stays in the magueyero and palenquero communities of Miahuatlán.

In early April 2022, Aniceto roasted nearly one ton of agave with algaroble and cucharito wood, which was covered with a combination of bagazo and banana leaf to insulate the maguey during the five day cooking process. The flawlessly cooked maguey was rested for twelve days before the piñas were broken down by machete and macerated by hand with a wooden mallet known as a mazo. Cooked to a caramelized perfection and quite sugar-rich, the fibers and juices required a four day dry fermentation time before 80 liters of spring water was added. After periodic inspection of aromas and flavors, Aniceto let the wet fermentation run for six days.

 Aniceto follows a recipe for distillation using the same materials and techniques shown to him by his grandfather: a copper boiler pot and cap, fitted with a refrescadera cooling jacket. Unlike some other methods in the vicinity, Aniceto fills the refrescadera with cool water three times during each round of distillation, or postura. A select cut of high proof liquid from this first round, which he refers to as shishe macizo, is separated and used to lower the final alcohol content of the heads and hearts cuts selected from the rectification in the second distillation. Around three liters of shishe macizo was separated and used to compose a total of 128L at 48.3%. We were luckily about to source about half of the total production, and through our partners at Vine Trail,  bring 78 bottles to the UK.

§  Maguey(es): Madrecuixe, Bicuixe, Barrilito (Agave karwinskii var.)

§  Provenance of the maguey: a medias, homegrown by neighboring magueyeros

§  Producer: Aniceto García

§  Region: San Luis Amatlán, Miahuatlán

§  Date of production: April 2022

§  Soil type: red and rocky tierra colorada cascajudo

§  Rest time after harvest: eight days

§  Oven: Conical earthen oven; six days with algaroble and cucharito wood

§  Rest time after oven: twelve days

§  Maceration: Hand-mashed with wooden mazo

§  Fermentation: Native yeasts; one 1200L Montezuma cypress sabino wood vats

§  Dry fermentation time: four days

§  Wet fermentation time: six days

§  Distillation: 2x in copper pot stills

§  Final composition: Heads, hearts, and a select cut of shishe macizo from the first found of distillation

§  Batch size: 128L

§  ABV: 48.3%